The correct Interior Surface Preparation
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2007
by Dale Ovenstone
Texture Revival
Preparation of 'Powdery/Flaky surfaces:
Some times called "whiting", "lime wash", "colourwash" or "distemper", whereas, the old paint making tradition of "glue paints", the methods decorators of old times used for mixing "size" or "glue" with "fine calcium", (chalk) and water to create soft, matt but delicate surface finishes started to become obsolete after the second world war, up until the 1960s, and was greatly used on housing estates built around that period of time.
This, I find, as well as for many other home "DIY" enthusiasts, is a major headache, if you're familiar with "Distemper" you will know what I mean, found in many of the older homes around Britain, but although some people today are recreating it for its soft texture and subtle colours, for the modern homeowner it can become a bit of a nightmare.
No matter which decorating method you apply to the surface, nothing seems to stick properly, even emulsion tends to bubble and peel off, but this powder must be removed and cured before painting, wallpapering, texturing or any decorating in general.
Removing this powdery surface covering will be a messy task, cover over the floor area and furniture with dust sheets before you begin, also wear a dust mask, gloves and goggles!
1: Dry scrape off all the loose material/paint with a sharp scraper, if this is impossible try wetting the surface.
2: Using a bucket of slightly warm soapy water and a sponge, wash off all the powder from the surface, regularly change the dirty water from the bucket for clean.
3: when you've done this and the ceiling has dried, rub your finger onto the surface, if there's still any powder present that shows on your finger, wash the surface again.
4: This washed surface is now very porous when it has dried and must be sealed with a watered down solution of "PVA" bonding mix, follow their recommended instructions on the container, "As for porous surfaces", next week we will be taking an in-depth look at various surfaces and how to prepare them correctly.
There is also an appropriate stabilising sealer that can be bought; this can be used if you want to, follow the instructions on the container.
Sometimes the particular ceiling had been painted and a bit of this paint did adhere to the surface, the method used was probably an "oil based undercoat" whereas the undercoat was mixed with white spirits/turpentine to thin down the undercoat so that this could be "Rolled on" but also it is believed that this thin consistency "Sank through the powder, adhering the powder to the surface" thus sealing it ready for redecoration, but this is not recommended because of the possible dangers of applying an oil based coating to your ceiling and also the effects of the fumes as the paint dries!
When you dry scrape the ceiling you may find that there are bits of paint that won't budge, try wetting them with warm water first and let the water sink in for ten or fifteen minutes, then if they come loose take them off otherwise, when you apply a wet coat of emulsion, texture or wallpaper, this will have the same bubbling effect as it penetrates and sinks into the surface slowly and then possibly, forcing off those bits that you thought were stuck solid. Dale Ovenstone 2007
As with any "DIY task" always follow the manufacturer's recommendations as stated on the packaging when using their materials, please be cautious when using equipment and sharp tools and also wear safety goggles, mask and gloves as and when necessary!
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